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San Jose boasts a half-dozen Ethiopian restaurants, and humble Mudai is one of my favorites. Mudai Ethiopian Restaurant doesn’t feel so much like a restaurant as it does an Ethiopian cultural center or an extended living room. Of course, what makes Mudai most inviting is the food. Peering into the kitchen, I saw a couple of women with elaborate hair wraps stirring pots and chopping vegetables, in no particular hurry. The spicy, rich smell of niter kebbeh (spice-infused clarified butter) hung in the air like perfume.