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Every great restaurant has a signature dish. At owner George Chen's pan-Asian Xanadu in Berkeley's 4th Street restaurant gulch, most folks will say that the Pao-Wok crispy chicken buried in sun-dried chilis ($11.75) is the stunner. Personally, I'd like to give a shout out to the Galanga beef ($15.25) which, when ordered rare, arrives rare and stays rare. Glistening in a steaming pluff of one-inch cubes, the filet is drenched in a meaty, sweetly spicy reduction sugared by a bedding of luscious lowland watercress and a tasty nest of fried yam sticks. Strangely, it goes brilliantly with R.H. Phillips' steely, fruity, white-as-white-can-be Viognier ($7.50/gls.).
-- Excerpt from Oooh Xandu by Tracie Broom