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Unlike some purveyors of cold dairy desserts, this beloved gelateria in the middle of downtown Los Gatos doesn't overwhelm patrons with endless choices. There are usually about a dozen flavors, all time-tested and consistently high-quality, served in single, double or triple scoops. Some slices of cake to choose from. Espresso if you want it. That's it. And for this simple, confident exercise in gustatory delight, people line up out the door on a regular basis.