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The Enthusiast

The Week in Food

This week, we share a few recent dining highlights: once-trendy tuna towers in Cole Valley; a great deal on mimosas in the Mission; a savory vegetarian winner in Bernal; tiny meat treats from a skillet; and free food for your downtown happy hour.

* The ahi tuna tower at Eos is still just as delicious (if anachronistic at this point) as the mid-Nineties hype said it would be, and the shittake
mushroom dumplings are impossibly rich; however, while the array of vegetarian dishes is impressive (despite a disappointingly mushy fried
noodle cake), some dishes are overwrought, and sesame plays too heavy a hand. Punishment for daring to dine on a Monday night? Chef's night

* We're in love with the $1 mimosas that come (by request) with each $8-10 brunch entree at Maverick on 17th @ Mission, where the burger is a delight, the fries are cooked perfectly 3 times out of 4, and the cheese grits and biscuits fill you up without putting you in a coma!

* Just try not to enjoy Geranium's vegetarian chile rellenos stuffed with potatoes, cheese, and other non-bellpeppery veggies, served with black beans, sour cream, a lightly spicy red sauce, and scrambled eggs on a sunny, friendly Cortland Street in Bernal Heights.

* Homemade 1-inch meatballs with parmesan and mustard, cooked in an iron skillet and served with pasta and a marinara chock full of sauteed kale: healthy and hearty, perfect for this rainy weather.

* It's true, Macarthur Park, though rather devoid of character, does indeed offer free food at happy hour from 5-7pm M-F, with a steam tray full of surprisingly well-seasoned, crispy chicken wings, a pedestrian cheese and cracker platter, fancy potato chips, a veggie crudite plate, a few dips, potato salad and this weird bread with something like chicken salad baked into it. Perfect fortification for an evening of drinking, first at a too-cool-for-school Hamburger Eyes party at 111 Minna, then at the Kabuki theater, where a brown bag and a horror movie go together like nobody's