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A Welcome Addition to the Ferry Building

Unlike most restaurants, whether one decides to patronize Traci Des Jardins' newest culinary venture depends on other factors as much as the quality of food. For many, the allure of Mijita will be its ingredients, purchased from local fisherman, farmers and ranchers who utilize sustainable practices for food production. To those in search of an organic taqueria, Mijita is a benediction.

By the same token, the use of organic produce is the cause of lofty prices, by taqueria standards. Two tacos and an agua fresca, plenty for all but the largest appetites, will cost $12-$15. And for every person looking for an organic taqueria, there's someone who doesn't believe in paying that much for a taco, especially with the Mission such a short trip away.

The interior of the restaurant is a good deal cleaner than the average taqueria, but the décor of the restaurant is otherwise nondescript. It's of little consequence though, since the dining experience has nothing to do with the building, and everything to do with the Ferry Building location.

The menu isn't particularly extensive -- four different tacos, a couple of quesadilla variations and a jicama, avocado and grapefruit salad, to go along with a few other side dishes. Each day, they serve three different varieties of agua frescas, the flavors of which are changed regularly. The guava-passion ($3.50) makes an ideal complement to a sunny day on the pier.

The starting point on the menu should be the taco pescado "Baja" ($4.75), a battered filet of mahi mahi laid in a bed of crisp cabbage and wrapped in a soft corn tortilla. The deep-frying of the fish doesn't cause it to drip with grease, but rather adds a fluffy layer of crispy goodness. During the first visit, the Mijita rendition of the fish taco was easily the equal of any in the city. The second go-round was a tad less successful however. The batter lacked the same flakiness, as if it had languished for a few moments before being served, inexplicable considering the 20-person line during the lunchtime rush.

Fortunately, the taco de carnitas ($3.50) easily dissipated the tinge of disappointment from the slightly imperfect fish taco. There's nothing startling about the taco; it's simply the product of high quality ingredients. The savory morsels of braised pork were repositories of flavor to be unlocked with each subsequent bite.

In one of the few consistently sunny areas of San Francisco, you can take a seat in the small outside dining area and stare out on the water, munching on organics taqueria fare while following the water vessels with your eyes as they float underneath the Bay Bridge.