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George's BBQ on 24th

A Carnivore's Kingdom

There’s nothing quite like being faced with a plate full of steaming meat. After the Bay Area’s parade of pricey small plates, George's BBQ is an oasis in the Outer Mission burritoland with heaps of no-frills meat for little cash. The only neighborhood nod is the plate of pickled jalapenos in front of the prominent trays of side dishes at the deli-style counter.

Many people get passionate and peppery about their BBQ, so note that this is not a proper Q. It is, however, a fine rotisserie. The sauce is thin and best left behind or on the side. With that in mind, the chicken is fall-off-the-bone tender. Juicy on the inside with crispy skin outside, it is worth taking home whole ($7.99).

The ribs are on the salty side, and the roast beef is a forgettable, uniform shade of brown. Skipping over those meats simply clears the way for more chicken on the platter-size, multi-meat plates.

The menu haphazardly spans the globe: BBQ cooked by a Greek guy on a menu alongside spaghetti, Polish sausage ($4.75), apple pie, ($2.25), and pastrami. The tropical island mural covering the walls and ceiling extends the unlikely global theme, but the effect is charmingly quirky.

Regarding side dishes: the green salad was fresh and heavy on the dill and cucumbers. Other choices include a who's who of haufbrau standards: Baked potatoes roasted with the meat, beet salad, potato salad, three bean salad, cole slaw, and macaroni salad. The combo dinner ($11.95) and George’s special ($13.95) were a carnivore’s dream of a meat pile-up with just enough starch to wash it down. Vegetarians will not likely make it past the front door.

The place is shiny and sparklingly clean from the floors to the faux butcher block tabletops — a rather pleasant surprise for a ’cue joint. But alas, it’s cash only, protein lovers. Roll up your sleeves and embark upon a carnivorous romp through this neighborhood cult favorite.

Reservations Essential? No