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Main courses, which range from $12 for a brick-grilled chicken to $36 for a char-grilled Bistecca alla Fiorentina for two, include two standouts: meaty, grilled lamb T-bones with zingy olive-fig tapenade ($16.75), and their polar opposite, smoky, perfectly tender veal Saltimbocca ($15.50), which on another visit became pork Saltimbocca. Braised lamb over polenta is shot through with green flavors and knocked over by piles of favas and asparagus. Desserts like the tingly zabaglione with fresh berries ($6) are pretty good, and the tiramisu is even fabulous, but not as essential as the savories on the dinner menu.
All in all, the 110-seat restaurant is a success, a welcome addition to the outer limits of the Valencia corridor. Weekend brunch and limited outdoor seating are appealing, as well.
- Excerpt from The Last Supper Club, Luna Park's Immaculate Conception by Tracie Broom