RNM Chef Justine Miner, who's had stints at The Globe, Café Kati, Postrio and Dine (which she helped open as sous chef), finally struck out on her own in 2002. Named in honor of her father, RNM opened in August in the spot where Pasta Pomodoro sputtered and died. The still-grungy Lower Haight had always been a favorite hangout of Miner's, so it seemed only natural to make it her home.

Seafood is a sure thing at RNM. The grilled Arctic char special was superb -- a flaky, tender chunk of mild white fish sitting atop a fluffy cloud of buttery garlic potato puree with a delicate sprinkling of sweet peas. Parsnip puree, caramelized endive and a chanterelle mushroom ragout create a medley of flavors that round out the sweet and savory found in each bite of the day boat scallops encrusted with porcini mushrooms ($16).

- Excerpt from A Diamond in the Rough by Lisa Y. Park