February, 2000: New chefs come and go, but Erik Oberholtzer is proving his longevity at his new digs, PACIFIC, a hot spot for the convention set in Union Square's Pan Pacific Hotel. Although the restaurant's fancy eighties-style decor is straight out of Moonlighting, Oberholtzer is keeping up with the Joneses with his smart, holistic take on California cuisine. Roasted lamb sparkles with a subtle tamarind rub and pine nut crust; ahi and hamachi tartars go brazen with ultra-flavorful marinated lotus root; flaky, crispy turbot glimmers in a root vegetable glaze; saffron gnocchi pluff up against chervil-laced crawdads; and for purists, there's a lively house-cured salmon with blini and caviar to go with the somewhat ample champagne list.

- Excerpt from Pacific Progress: New chef brings haute cuisine to high-rise hotel by Tracie Broom