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Chef Ola Fendert, loved locally for his exec chef work at Plouf, opened a cosmopolitan little corner bistro on Potrero Hill with Plouf cohorts Jocelyn Bulow and Marc-Henri Sempere earlier this year. The small, lightly industrial space packs 38 diners, a few bar patrons, and about a dozen al fresco foodies for lunch and dinner every day. Hip to Chez Papa's buzz, citoyens travel citywide for French Provencal cuisine like lamb daube ($19), beef tartar ($9), and tart Tatin ($6). Sardined next to a neighboring deuce, we reveled in Marseilles-style mussels in a tomato-garlic broth ($8), roasted chicken with olives, lemon and red chard ($16), a gorgeous steak with pistou coulis ($24), and a mandatory side of shoestring frites with aioli ($4). There is a slight factory feel to the place, thanks to rapid turnover and quick service, so don't expect to linger over your Lillet on the rocks. Perfect for a quick, urbane meal before a night on the town.
- Excerpt from review by Tracie Broom