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Similar good sense is practiced at Arinell, the mother of all New York-style pizzerias in San Francisco. One look at their pizza told me I was in the right place. The pie is cut into large slices thin enough to hold folded. Instead of coating their pizza with a solid white slab of mozzarella, Arinell uses a lighter hand, allowing the cheese to soak up sauce as it melts. Even the small pools of orange grease look right. My first bite brought back childhood memories: hot strings of mozzarella, bright tomatoes, and a just-crisp-enough crust. With that, I knew my search was over.
- Excerpt from SF Station review by Anya Hoffman