Don Johnson and Cheech Marin turn restaurateurs, opening their Vietnamese plantation in Ghirardelli Square.

Cuisine: Haute Vietnamese. Sweet blue crab soup and wokked pluffs of beef tenderloin with pepper cress are both utter successes, though the mere thought of the caramelized Mekong Delta Basa (a bit like sea bass) with a pungent lemon-chili-fish sauce glaze makes us wet our pants, it's so good.

Neighborhood: Not too much tour bus mania after sundown; Ana Mandara is close enough to the Aquatic Park to feel more a part of Fort Mason than of the Wharf and G. Square.

Executive Chef: Khai Duong